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Varnish removal help

 
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car99



Joined: Jun 11 2004
Posts: 24
Location: Dutch Harbor, AK

PostPosted: Sun Nov 07, 2004 10:43 pm    Post subject: Varnish removal help Reply with quote

Hi Trey, what is the best way of taking off a sloppy varnishing job? I know I've read about different ways of doing it with fine brass wool, but can't remember if you use WD40 with it or what. BTW, I finally got that type i and it's a beauty. Now it's time to save up for a T38 or T99 long. Oh and it's not an Arisaka with varnish, but a Mosin my brother picked up in Florida.............Thanks, Jim
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car99



Joined: Jun 11 2004
Posts: 24
Location: Dutch Harbor, AK

PostPosted: Sun Nov 07, 2004 10:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I forgot to say that my T99 short now has one of Don Schlickman's monopods and it is a perfect fit. The pod touchs the marks behind the nosecap that were made by the original.....Jim
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gwsiii



Joined: Aug 21 2003
Posts: 2228
Location: Hayden, AL

PostPosted: Wed Nov 10, 2004 8:44 am    Post subject: Varnish Reply with quote

Jim, The stuff I've experimented with is all from my local Walmart.
Depending on whether its lacquer or varnish, different products work better. You'll have to experiment. I try putting a little on a cloth rag, and applying it to an inconspicous area, let it sit a little, and then start rubbing. In most cases, it gets gooey and starts coming right off if I'm using the right stuff. When I think I've got my 'spot' done, I let it sit a while, and look for anything amiss, before continuing. Once I've decided I'm using the right 'stuff', I'm a little bolder with the application. What I've found so far, with decent results is:
Oops - comes in two varieties, plain, and a water based squirt bottle.
Goof Off
Denatured Alcohol
You'll just have to experiment with which works best for you. I use WD-40 on original stocks that are just dirty. It seems to get the grunge that is on top of the original finish off without hurting the original layers of finish. Hope that helps, and if you find anything else let us know. Trey
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I didn't pay to much for that old Arisaka, I just bought it a little bit too soon!
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 11, 2004 12:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Trey, thanks for the info, I'll try that when I to my brother's in Dec. WD40 will take rust off chrome, but the stuff is pretty safe, I heard it's made from fish oil.......Jim
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car99



Joined: Jun 11 2004
Posts: 24
Location: Dutch Harbor, AK

PostPosted: Thu Nov 11, 2004 12:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

WHOA, I forgot to log in. Thanks for the info, I'll try that stuff when I go to my brother's in Dec........Jim
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gwsiii



Joined: Aug 21 2003
Posts: 2228
Location: Hayden, AL

PostPosted: Thu Nov 11, 2004 9:24 am    Post subject: Stocks Reply with quote

I use WD40 when cleaning metal, its a decent degreaser and rust solvent. I spray the metal down and let it soak a bit, then break out my Big 45 Nickel wool pads, 0000 steel wool, a tooth brush, tooth pics, and a Pack 6 of cool refreshing beverages and clean. The pads and WD40 work well with each other, unfortunately the pads also cut up the tips of your fingers. I clean a little, spray it down, wipe it off with paper towels, spray it down, clean a little, repeat. It works really well. There was a particular 38 carbine I bought one day from a semi-collector, completely brown with surface rust, really nasty looking. Paid $70. Took it home, realized it was going to call for some of Kentucky's finest as a chaser, several hours and a pint later. It was quite presentable. Took it back to the show the next day, no one recognized it, seller offered me $150 to get it back. Still got it. A nice example of one that's 'been there-done that' and I was able to make presentable with a little time and patience. Trey
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I didn't pay to much for that old Arisaka, I just bought it a little bit too soon!
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