View previous topic :: View next topic |
Author |
Message |
hideous
Joined: Jun 15 2008 Posts: 8 Location: Melbourne Australia
|
Posted: Wed Mar 04, 2009 4:43 am Post subject: Okay - frustrated second Type 99 with odd firing pin |
|
|
Hello Guys
I have another Type 99 with a type 38 firing pin -
this is the best one i had ever seen and i intend on using it in military rifle competitions. every S/N matches except the firing pin and bolt rear.
Just checking - everything looked great - good bluing etc etc - until I checked the bolt - a rusty firing pin. AGAIN .
Is it normal for these firing pins to be different or do i just have bad luck? |
|
Back to top |
|
 |
hideous
Joined: Jun 15 2008 Posts: 8 Location: Melbourne Australia
|
Posted: Wed Mar 04, 2009 5:00 am Post subject: |
|
|
[/img]
[/img]
[/img] |
|
Back to top |
|
 |
hideous
Joined: Jun 15 2008 Posts: 8 Location: Melbourne Australia
|
Posted: Wed Mar 04, 2009 5:02 am Post subject: |
|
|
my 200m target using Woodleigh 8mm 196g projectiles |
|
Back to top |
|
 |
gwsiii
Joined: Aug 21 2003 Posts: 2240 Location: Hayden, AL
|
Posted: Wed Mar 04, 2009 8:52 am Post subject: pins |
|
|
Several factors contribute to that so I'll list what comes to mind.
I'm not sure about your regulations over the years, but at one time, some of the importers over here got around tariffs and import fees/regulations by importing complete rifles broken down as gun parts, instead of complete guns.
I've talked to several Vets that have indicated various ways of preventing accidents on the voyage home, included dropping bolts in a barrel while boarding and retrieving when leaving. Another way was by removing pin, spring, and knob, putting back together as a unit and dropping in the barrel, retrieving when leaving. .25 cal (6.5s) went in one barrel, .30 cal (7.7s) in another. Other Vets have indicated that they just carried their rifles on board with no restrictions other than 'no machine guns'.
Also, unfamiliarity with the design has caused lots of problems (me included as a young chap), if the safety is accidentally removed and the remover can't figure out how to get it back together, it gets lost. If it gets jammed by decocking or improper manipulation of the safety and bolt and has to be taken apart or forced apart, things break and sometimes can't be put back together again.
I'd imagine parts are at premium down your way, and its probably more likely that parts were scavenged from that rifle for another and then later a tired 38 bolt gave up its guts for your rifle. Looks like a nice rifle!
Always inspect a rifle carefully. I've bought several 'matching' rifles over the years, that weren't, from both novices and advanced collectors. To me matching means just that, every numbered part matches. Matching means matching, not matching except for: floorplate, firing pin, safety, bolt, front band, stock, blah, blah, blah, if you see 'except' in the same sentence as 'matching' it doesn't. Same thing with 'original' it is either 'all original', or it isn't. I just did a search on gunbroker for matching and except and got more than a couple hits, so that description is still used pretty frequently.
I know there are more reasons just can't think of them right now. Trey _________________ Subscribe to BANZAI!
Fill out a Japanese Rifle Datasheet.
I didn't pay to much for that old Arisaka, I just bought it a little bit too soon! |
|
Back to top |
|
 |
hideous
Joined: Jun 15 2008 Posts: 8 Location: Melbourne Australia
|
Posted: Wed Mar 04, 2009 3:42 pm Post subject: |
|
|
thanks.
Every part matches in s/n except those two parts: firing pin and knob, the bolt itself has the correct serial.
Just checked the dust cover -it matches as well.
I noticed Gunparts has new firing pins for $65US - has anyone seen them in the flesh?
Next weekend i am trying a slightly different load on the 300m and 500m ranges.
Yes i know what you mean about wholesalers importing firearms as parts - i wanted a Tokarev 7.62x25 and was pointed to a crate of 1500 frames and assorted parts and told to "go for it" |
|
Back to top |
|
 |
gwsiii
Joined: Aug 21 2003 Posts: 2240 Location: Hayden, AL
|
Posted: Wed Mar 04, 2009 6:13 pm Post subject: pins |
|
|
I have seen the pins, they don't look as good as originals, but they work, some require a little filing here and there I think. The safeties work but don't look so good. You'd be better off buying a complete Kokura bolt and just be sure the firing pin and safety were good. I don't guess it hurts anything to shoot it with the 38 safety and pin though. Of course you might get a better deal on 2 or more, if you had the money to have a spare or two in reserve. Look up seller hooah2 on gunbroker.com. Trey _________________ Subscribe to BANZAI!
Fill out a Japanese Rifle Datasheet.
I didn't pay to much for that old Arisaka, I just bought it a little bit too soon! |
|
Back to top |
|
 |
03man
Joined: Jul 30 2005 Posts: 131 Location: Denver, NC
|
Posted: Fri Mar 06, 2009 12:50 am Post subject: |
|
|
A T38 firing pin(striker) will not operate with a T 99 safety.
A T38 striker and safety can be substuted into a T99 bolt.
Also a T99 striker and safety can be used in a T 38 bolt.
The strikers and safetys cannot be 'mixed'. _________________ 03man |
|
Back to top |
|
 |
hideous
Joined: Jun 15 2008 Posts: 8 Location: Melbourne Australia
|
Posted: Fri Mar 06, 2009 3:00 am Post subject: |
|
|
03man wrote: | A T38 firing pin(striker) will not operate with a T 99 safety.
A T38 striker and safety can be substuted into a T99 bolt.
Also a T99 striker and safety can be used in a T 38 bolt.
The strikers and safetys cannot be 'mixed'. |
So i need to buy an $85 complete bolt and steal the firing pin and safety.
one on Gunbroker that is a close'ish number *419 it just doesnt look good. |
|
Back to top |
|
 |
gwsiii
Joined: Aug 21 2003 Posts: 2240 Location: Hayden, AL
|
Posted: Fri Mar 06, 2009 7:57 am Post subject: bolt |
|
|
I wouldn't bother getting a number, the number doesn't matter unless its the same number, I'd worry more about getting the proper bolt from the correct arsenal that has similar finish. Trey _________________ Subscribe to BANZAI!
Fill out a Japanese Rifle Datasheet.
I didn't pay to much for that old Arisaka, I just bought it a little bit too soon! |
|
Back to top |
|
 |
hideous
Joined: Jun 15 2008 Posts: 8 Location: Melbourne Australia
|
Posted: Fri Mar 06, 2009 8:34 pm Post subject: Re: bolt |
|
|
gwsiii wrote: | I wouldn't bother getting a number, the number doesn't matter unless its the same number, I'd worry more about getting the proper bolt from the correct arsenal that has similar finish. Trey |
Hey I was just filling out a data sheet on this 99 - what can we decypher from these pictures ? |
|
Back to top |
|
 |
gwsiii
Joined: Aug 21 2003 Posts: 2240 Location: Hayden, AL
|
Posted: Fri Mar 06, 2009 11:06 pm Post subject: rifle |
|
|
Just about everything on your rifle is 'A' but the Front, Rear Sights, and Monopod band which are 'B'. You'll need an 'A' style pin, with kokura inspection (kokura 23rd series rifle) and 'A' Style knob with kokura inspection. Pin will be numbered left to right, right side up. This picture is reversed, but the numbering and sear/foot are in the proper position for what I'm saying. Basically the numbering is on the barrel, 1/4 turn cc from the protrusion on the pin. I think the inspection mark is on the collar towards the front of the pin. I may have that confused with 38s though. Its been a long day. Trey
 _________________ Subscribe to BANZAI!
Fill out a Japanese Rifle Datasheet.
I didn't pay to much for that old Arisaka, I just bought it a little bit too soon! |
|
Back to top |
|
 |
hideous
Joined: Jun 15 2008 Posts: 8 Location: Melbourne Australia
|
Posted: Sat Mar 07, 2009 2:30 am Post subject: Re: rifle |
|
|
gwsiii wrote: | Just about everything on your rifle is 'A' but the Front, Rear Sights, and Monopod band which are 'B'. You'll need an 'A' style pin, with kokura inspection (kokura 23rd series rifle) and 'A' Style knob with kokura inspection. Pin will be numbered left to right, right side up. This picture is reversed, but the numbering and sear/foot are in the proper position for what I'm saying. Basically the numbering is on the barrel, 1/4 turn cc from the protrusion on the pin. I think the inspection mark is on the collar towards the front of the pin. I may have that confused with 38s though. Its been a long day. Trey
 |
Thanks - when my 2yo goes to sleep i will try to decypher what you said and compare to what is on gunbroker |
|
Back to top |
|
 |
Garandshtr
Joined: Dec 27 2007 Posts: 109 Location: Palm Harbor, FL
|
Posted: Sun Mar 08, 2009 9:06 am Post subject: back to hideous |
|
|
Sorry, I can't add anything to your striker/firing pin discussion. I'm still flabbergasted by your statement about shooting 8mm projectiles. Has your rifle been rechambered? It seems to be original, based on the muzzle pic which seems to indicate a chromed bore. I'm surprised that swaging a .323 bullet down a .311 barrel will produce such great grouping at 200 meters! _________________ Still trying to learn what I can, mainly about the Type 99 and Type 38. I have more curiosity than time, and more time than money. |
|
Back to top |
|
 |
Smokey
Joined: Sep 07 2006 Posts: 60
|
Posted: Sun Mar 08, 2009 4:28 pm Post subject: |
|
|
I think 03man used 0.318 bullets. The groove diameter for Type-99s runs 0.314 (and more), so the difference is not that bad.
If the bore has a forcing cone that accepts oversize bullets, the combination works out pretty well. The important thing is the forcing cone. Ruger uses one on it's 7.62x39 Ranch rifle. The bore is 0.308 but it works fine with surplus 0.311 ammo, even the all-steel Chinese stuff! |
|
Back to top |
|
 |
|